Rope lifespan

Depending on how often and how hard you use it, a dynamic rope's safety margin is reduced by external factors such as abrasion, dirt, mechanical loading, the rope running under load (lowering or rappelling), fall loading, intense UV radiation or harsh climatic conditions.

• Rappelling and lowering — as the rope runs under load, its dynamic performance drops and its safety margin shrinks.
• Abrasion — gradually weakens the cohesion of the sheath. The heavier the abrasion, the more clearly it shows as a “fuzzy” sheath — and the lower the sheath's load capacity and the protection it gives the core.
• Dirt — particles of dirt and rock that get into the rope act like grit: they abrade the fine fibres of both core and sheath and reduce the load-bearing cross-section of the fibres, especially during frequent rappelling and lowering.
• Dynamic loading — falls reduce the rope's ability to absorb dynamic (impact) energy. A lot depends on how hard the fall is — falls with a fall factor greater than 1 are classed as hard falls.

Safety research carried out by mountaineering federations has shown that as long as the sheath shows no significant damage or signs of heavy abrasion, falls with a fall factor below 0.5 pose no safety risk when belayed correctly and dynamically — provided the rope isn't running over sharp edges.

Provided all the general guidelines for safe handling of dynamic ropes are followed, the following non-binding lifespan figures can be recommended for dynamic ropes:

• Intensive — daily use (sport climbers, mountain guides, climbing gyms) — less than 1 year
• Regular — weekend use (year-round) — 1 to 2 years
• Regular — weekend use (seasonal) — 2 to 3 years
• Occasional use (recreational, once a month) — 3 to 5 years
• Sporadic use — 5 to 7 years
• Unused rope — 5 + 10 years