What you prefer?
| Offwith or finger crack? |
| Dog or Cat? |
| Country or Blues? |
| Handjam or Chimney? |
| Zion or Yosemite valley? |
| Photography or painting? |
| Breakfast or Dinner? |
| Horse riding or canyoneering? |
| Ketchup or Mustard? |
| Climbing training or traveling? |
Where did you get your first experience with crag climbing?
My first experience with crag climbing was when I first moved to Moab, Utah. I drove down highway 279 and saw rock climbers climbing on Wall Street. I was instantly curious about the sport of rock climbing which at that time I knew little about. I purchased a book about rock climbing, some basic gear, and started going outside with anyone I could.
What can you tell us about the climbing community in Utah.
The climbing community in Moab, Utah is pretty transient. People are constantly moving to and from Moab. It can be difficult to build a solid community year round, season after season. Recently, I moved to Flagstaff, Arizona and I am stoked on how much more permanent and involved the Arizona climbing community is.
Are you interested in first ascents? I mean setting the new trad climbing routes?
I occasionally seak out first ascents, and am slowly developing a crag in Moab, Utah called East Berlin. Right now however, my priority is pursuing hard grades in the White Rim of canyonlands, Vedauwoo, Wy, and in Indian Creek, Utah. I will devote more time to FA’s when I accomplish my other goals.
Can you tell us something more about climbing technique for the offwidth cracks - your legs are ahead than your body. It is not a very common technique in the Czech Republic...
The technique of climbing feet first is useful if the route becomes over vertical and wider than fists. It becomes much more difficult to climb wide sizes as soon as the route becomes overhanging if you do not climb feet first. Climbing feet first is actually easier and allows you to gain more ground with less effort(your feet are larger than your stacks and you can hang from them). I prefer this technique when it makes a boulder or route easier.
What is total weight of your climbing rack for long crack offwidth routes?
That depends! It might be very light with a couple of cams or a huge monster rack of 12lbs. The weight does add up because I weigh on average 100 lbs. For context, when the Danny Parker sent the century crack his rack weighed 13.3 lbs! That’s over 10% of my body weight! I think the largest offwidth rack I’ve carried was one #4, three #5s, five #6s, and one #7.
Have you ever visited Europeans climbing areas?
I have had the pleasure of climbing in Sheffield England, San Vito Lo Capa Italy, La Pedriza Spain, Barcelona Spain, Costa Blanca Spain and Mallorca Spain. My favorite of those areas was La Pedriza, Spain and Mallorca, Spain. I love beach side sport climbing and the awesome granite cracks and slabs in La Pedriza.
Have you ever heard about the Czech sandstone?
I have heard about Czech sandstone and the practice of using knots and slings. I would one day love to visit and climb the style for the experience!
What's your favorite climbing area inside of the USA? Why?
It’s hard for me to choose a favorite climbing area. I just absolutely LOVE climbing. At the moment my favorite climbing areas are; Indian Creek Utah, The Superstitions Mountains, Arizona, and The Black Canyon of the Gunnison.
You like photography and painting. Since when have you been doing these two activities?
I have always been an artist. I started painting as a teenager and eventually added photography as one of my disciplines. I still paint but I love the dynamic style of sport photography. I mostly paint when the climber weather is bad! Painting takes a lot longer and is less dynamic than my photography. My photography feels like a collaborative effort between me and the climber whereas painting is much more personal to me. I enjoy photography because of the joy the climber gets from being photographed and capturing the beauty of the route and the climbing movement. Painting to me is something that is personal and a lot more introspective.
What's your favorite Tendon rope and why?
TENDON MASTER PRO 9.2 - RED is my favorite Tendon rope. It is my favorite because it is light, yet durable. It handles amazingly and I LOVE the red color. I call it my little red corvette every time I climb with it.